Japanese Onsen

"Doesn't look real" view at Wakatake onsen

I haven't traveled recently but I was hoping to post a blog entry unrelated to food.  So I got to thinking about some of my travel experiences that I really want to share.  The first thing that came to my mind was the Japanese Onsen (hot mineral spring baths).

The first time I went to a Japanese Onsen was in 2006 with my Japanese friend.  She was planning our Japan trip and asked me if I'd like to go to an onsen.  "Uh, ok" was my response, secretly fretting about being naked in a communal bath with men and women.  After a couple of more conversations with my friend I learned that the genders are separated.  Ah!  Of course I'd like to go!  No problem!

This is an experience I think everyone should have.  Completely foreign, different, interesting, weird, and oh so Japanese.  The Japanese LOVE onsen.  I have never heard a Japanese person say otherwise.  Because of the life they live - existing in small, crowded, noisy spaces, they need an escape of peace and relaxation.   Onsen is embedded in Japanese history and culture and has a deep meaning to the Japanese that I will probably never understand, but I do truly enjoy visiting onsens!

Generally, going to an onsen is an overnight getaway.  Most onsens are inns or hotels with traditional Japanese food included.  We stayed at the Wakatake no Sho in Nikko in 2006 (very fancy) and Setsugetsuka in Hakone in 2008 (not so fancy).   I will write about Wakatake no Sho as it was the most incredible experience.  Nikko is picturesque and every shade of green, and there were even wild monkeys around the onsen.  When we entered the onsen we were greeted by impeccably dressed women in kimonos and offered tea and mochi.  So civilized!  We were also assigned an English speaking attendant which was fortunate as no one else at the inn spoke English.

The boys in their yukatas

We were guided to a room where we were given yukatas (casual kimono robes) and zori (slippers) to wear for the duration of our stay.  You can were your yukata the entire time at the onsen - even to the dining room!  It is so comfortable and I loved not thinking about what I should wear every day.  In some tourist areas, people even walk around town in their yukatas!

At the onsens I have visited all of the signs are in Japanese, and I couldn't understand them.  Occasionally I would recognize the kanji character for "water" and follow the path.  Somehow, we always found the onsen baths.

My experience, of course, is the women's baths.  When you enter there is a changing room where you leave your clothes.  You only take a clean washcloth with you, so most people hold the towel to strategically cover themselves.  A challenge with a tiny washcloth, but Japanese people are small :)   You then enter the indoor onsen bath area.  There are washing "stations" that you must use before entering any bath.  Each station has a faucet, round wooden bucket, soaps and shampoo, and a small wooden stool.  Sit on the stool and fill the bucket with water.  Wash your hair and your body vigorously with your towel.  I did this and thought I was squeaky clean.  I was about to stand up but then realized the women next to me, who were there scrubbing themselves before I sat down, were STILL scrubbing themselves.  Apparently, one should scrub herself two or three times!

Our balcony at Wakatake

After scrubbing yourself clean, you are fit to enter a bath (hot spring).  There is usually an indoor bath and an outdoor bath.  I personally love the outdoor bath because they are usually set in a garden with views.   The setting is always serene and peaceful, think of a beautiful Japanese garden with large, natural pools.  I can't do the setting justice so check out the pictures on the website:  http://www.wakatakenosyou.co.jp/spa/index.html

As one enters the bath, it is so warm, hot actually, and so soothing.  There is a continuous flow of water from the hot spring into the bath.  The other people in the bath are  happy and relaxed, often talking quietly or sitting back with closed eyes and their towel on their head.  Oh, an important note - never ever let your towel touch the bath water.  The towel has been dirtied with your scrubbing so it is not fit to enter the bath. 

Anyways, what I am trying to express about the onsen is that it is a peaceful oasis that is filled with happy people enjoying themselves.   A wonderful place to just be.  Please put visiting an onsen in Japan on your list of things to do in your lifetime.  Thanks for reading.